Walking in Lisbon

Lisbon's oldest descends the hill between the Castle and the river. It survived the devastating earthquake of 1755 relatively unscathed due to the firm bedrock on which it sits. The quarter's labyrinth of meandering narrow streets, alleyways and steep flights of steps retain an ancient street plan. Some of the buildings still stand on foundations dating from the times of the Visigoths. It was the Arabs who founded the hodgepodge layout of the district and awarded it the name "Al-hamma", meaning fountains or baths. When designing a replacement Baixa district following the 1755 earthquake Marques de Pombal based it on a geometric grid system. He is reputed to have said when looking upon the Alfama that Lisbon could do with a second earthquake.

To describe or plan a walking route through the maze of narrow cobbled, mainly traffic-free alleyways would be futile. These passageways are known as becos and travessas rather than ruas. The best option would either hire a local guide or simply allow yourself to become lost and absorb the characteristics of the district. Meander underneath hung washing and small archways, take in the sounds of canaries singing from their cages, and marvel at the numerous flower pots which compensate for the lack of greenery. As you wander, you're sure to encounter a small square or a terrace (miradouro) from which to admire city views. The mournful sound of Fado emanates from tiny music clubs and the omnipresent smell of grilled fish and meat fill your nostrils. On a cautionary note, be mindful of your wallet and camera. That said, the Alfama offers a glimpse into the past and an old-world cultural experience. Restaurants tend to be small and family-run with outdoor seating. Chances are your table will be wobbly and on a hill. It matters not if you decide to start at the top of the hill and walk down or from the bottom up. [ More About the Alfama ► ]